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With the heat no longer a problem, we left later at about 9.30 am, straight
into a hard climb. Carol had doubts if she could continue, and thought about
turning back to catch the train at Sarria, but we ploughed on.
Eventually, we started a long downhill that took us down to Portomarin. We
crossed a long bridge over a beautiful lake, there was some wonderful scenery.
After a short rest, we started again, uphill. After a good climb we paused
for lunch at Gonzar. From here the climb was even steeper, but we passed through
some lovely country lanes and villages. We had coffee at the "fuente
del peregrino" near Ligonde, this part of the Camino had a real sense
of the spirit of pilgrimage.
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Finally, we joined the main road and continued into Palas del Rei. We stayed
at the Hospedaje Guntina which only cost 3000 pts, but was little more than
a block of flats, with a cafe in the basement.
After much searching, we found another recommended place to eat, the
Casa Churro. This had a wonderful atmosphere and we ate a fine hearty
"menu", that consisted of "caldo gallego" (cabbage
& vegetable broth), and "merluza gallega" (hake & potato
casserole). This was much tastier than it perhaps sounds. The staff were
extremely friendly to pilgrims.
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